Miyajima - Sacred Island

The really, really fast Shinkansen brought meexceptional too - very ornate, beautiful gardens,
from Kyoto to Hiroshima at 300kph. Whoa!full-service only, no buffet breakfast; very high
Hiro=Wide. Shima=Island. Hiroshima=Wide Island.end. And it had its own "onsen" (mineral hot spring
It's actually not an island, but a group of islandsbath - more about those another time). My single
created by the numerous rivers that come downroom in the hotel in Kyoto was as wide as my
from the mountain and run through the city. Oncebed plus 100cm. I kid you not. I once stayed in
I arrived here, I went directly to the ferry stationAmersfoort, Netherlands in a place like that. Then
for the crossing to Miyajima Island. Miya=Holy andit was a novelty. Now it was disappointing! But
Jima=Shima=Island. Miyajima=Holy Island. Oncethat was made up by my hotel here in Hiroshima
again, the Shinto equivalence of holiness withwhich was very, very fancy.
beauty - and the place is indeed very, veryLate that night I went for a walk through the
beautiful.deserted streets of Hiroshima. Passed a Pachinko
Just offshore in the water is located Japan's mostPalace (more details on that phenomenon will
famous vermillion Torii, built originally in the 17thcome along with the onsen too) where the
century, and indicating the passage into a sacredgamblers were busy with their hands feverishly
location. The island is also teeming with deer thatworking the pull-bar. I also passed a used car lot
seem to live with us humans quite fine, thank you.where the cutest little Mitsubishi city cars were on
They are really pesky and keep nudging for foodsale. At 11:15 p.m. I called the front desk and
and when they aren't provided any, they startrequested a massage. So this 60-year-oldish
chewing on whatever is at hand - like my jacketwoman comes to my room holding what
sleeve.appeared to be a bag of tools. She looked like
As I meandered along, I came across a weddingRosa Klebb. Remember her? She was James
party enjoying some elaborate Shinto dance ritual.Bond's sworn enemy in "From Russia with Love,"
I didn't understand the Bugaku or its significance,the one with the poisoned spike in her shoe. My
but the intricate dance was quite wild, and the livemasseuse spoke no English, but with lots of
music played by a group of Shinto priests"Hai!"s, we managed to make ourselves
accompanying the dancing priest, was charming. Iunderstood. She strolled into the room, took of
doubt the Talmudic discussion between theher shoes, hopped on the bed and proceeded to
schools of Hillel and Shammai, regarding how oneroll off the duvet, placed a special cushion on the
is to dance before a bride, ever made its waybed, and told me in hand-language to put on the
here. But, oh boy, this was one big and blusteryyukata (robe) that's hanging in the closet.
boogie! I then strolled around the shrines on thisAnyway, once she had me on the bed she
most beautiful island, did some shopping and madeproceeded to give me one of those good old
my way back to the ferry, across the sea and todeep penetrating Shiatsu massages. At the
the bus, from where I proceeded to my hotel.beginning it was seriously painful, but as she
A little about the hotels: the one where I stayedcontinued and I relaxed, it got better. She left,
in Tokyo was lovely. The rooms were dividedand for the first time since arriving here, I had a
between the bedroom area and the living area.good, solid, uninterrupted 5 hours of sleep.
Very comfortable beds, MUCH better than thoseFantastic!
I slept in, in China. The hotel in Hakone was